Zürich routinely tops global quality-of-life rankings, and as an exchange student you'll see why: two of the world's best universities, a gorgeous lake for swimming, superb public transport and the Alps within reach. It is Switzerland's cultural and financial powerhouse, cosmopolitan and efficient, with a surprisingly gritty, creative nightlife beneath the polish. The catch is that it is one of the most expensive cities on earth.

• Home to ETH Zürich and the University of Zürich, both world-leading institutions
• A pristine lake, brilliant transport and the Alps close by, with plenty of student energy

With ETH and UZH on the hill above the centre, Zürich has a strong student scene, and nightlife runs from the gritty bars of Kreis 4 along Langstrasse to the creative warehouses of Zürich-West. Summer is defined by the lake and river, where the free public baths (Badis) and the Oberer Letten river swim are the social heart. The Street Parade in August is Europe's biggest techno party.

• Swim and sunbathe at the free Oberer Letten river baths or the lakeside Badis all summer
• Go out along Langstrasse in Kreis 4, or the bars and clubs of Zürich-West
• Ask the Zürich Studcasa group about ETH and UZH student nights and where to swim after lectures

Zürich is one of the most expensive cities in the world, so budget €1,900–2,600 a month or more, with rent by far the biggest cost. Student residences through WOKO and the Juwo cooperative are the cheapest housing and worth applying to immediately. The university mensas, the free lake swims and a good travelcard are your best money-savers.

• Apply straight away to WOKO and Juwo student housing, the cheapest rooms in the city
• Budget CHF 800–1,400 for a room, though shared student housing runs lower
• Eat at the ETH and UZH mensas, and get a ZVV pass plus a Halbtax card

Zürich's housing market is notoriously brutal, so start hunting the moment you're accepted. The student housing cooperatives WOKO and Juwo offer the best value, while private shared flats (WGs) require you to charm your way through group viewings. Beware of deposit scams and never pay before seeing a place.

• Apply early to WOKO and Juwo for subsidised student rooms
• Search WGZimmer.ch and Students.ch, and prepare a short intro for WG viewings
• Ask the Zürich Studcasa group for leads, and never transfer a deposit before viewing

Zürich has some of the best public transport anywhere: blue ZVV trams, buses, S-Bahn trains, lake boats and even little funiculars, all on one ticket. The Polybahn funicular carries students up to ETH, and everything runs like clockwork, with a night network at weekends. The compact centre is also very walkable.

• Get a ZVV season pass covering trams, buses, S-Bahn and lake boats
• Ride the Polybahn funicular up to the ETH campus from the centre
• Use the night network (Nachtnetz) at weekends to get home after clubbing

Zürich's two giants are ETH Zürich, one of the world's top science and technology universities, and the broad, respected University of Zürich (UZH), joined by the arts university ZHdK. ETH teaches many Master's courses in English, while much of UZH's Bachelor teaching is in German. Terms run mid-September to December and February to June.

• ETH Zürich is world-class for science and engineering, with English-taught Master's courses
• UZH is a large, all-round research university, mostly teaching in German at Bachelor level

Switzerland is in Schengen but not the EU, so your process depends on nationality. EU/EFTA students do not need a visa; you enter freely and then register with your local commune (Gemeinde/commune) within 14 days of arrival to get a residence permit, showing enrolment, funds and insurance.

Non-EU students must apply for a national (D) long-stay visa at a Swiss embassy before travelling, then convert it to a residence permit at the local commune after arrival. You will need your acceptance letter, proof of sufficient funds, accommodation and health insurance. Processing can take eight to twelve weeks, so apply as early as possible. Everyone must sort mandatory Swiss health insurance or get an exemption using EHIC or equivalent cover.

• EU/EFTA: no visa; register with your local commune within 14 days
• Non-EU: apply for a national D visa at a Swiss embassy before arrival
• Bring acceptance letter, proof of funds, housing and insurance
• Sort health insurance early, it is mandatory or needs a formal exemption
• Start non-EU applications 3+ months ahead; processing is slow

Zürich's signature dish is Zürcher Geschnetzeltes, veal in a creamy sauce with rösti, and Sprüngli's dainty Luxemburgerli macarons are a local sweet institution. Eating out is very expensive, so markets and mensas matter. The lake, the medieval old town and the drinkable fountain water are all part of daily life, and Sundays shut the shops.

• Try Zürcher Geschnetzeltes with rösti, and Luxemburgerli macarons from Sprüngli
• Drink from the city's public fountains, whose water is clean and free
• Shop on Saturday or at the station's Sunday-opening supermarkets, as most shops close Sundays

The old town (Niederdorf) is historic and central, Kreis 4 and 5, taking in Langstrasse and Zürich-West, are the edgy nightlife and creative districts, Kreis 6 sits near the universities above the centre, and lakeside Seefeld is smart and pricey. Wiedikon and Wollishofen offer relatively better value.

• Kreis 4 and 5 for nightlife, bars and a creative edge
• Kreis 6 for proximity to ETH and UZH
• Wiedikon or Wollishofen for comparatively lower rents

Zürich's central station is a springboard for the whole country. Lucerne and its lake are forty-five minutes away, the Rhine Falls forty, and the city mountain of Uetliberg just twenty for a quick hike with panoramic views. Bern, Interlaken and even Italy's Lake Como are within a few hours for a bigger weekend.

• Hike or ride up the Uetliberg, Zürich's own mountain, in about twenty minutes
• Take the train to Lucerne or the Rhine Falls, each under an hour away
• Head to Interlaken's peaks or Lake Como for a longer weekend

Zürich's cost is the main challenge, so lock in cheap student housing and a travelcard early and lean on the mensas and free lake swims. Stock up on Saturday because Sundays close everything except station shops, drink freely from the fountains, and remember that trams always have right of way. Standard German gets you far, but locals speak Swiss German.

• Sort WOKO or Juwo housing and a travelcard early to blunt the high costs
• Use the free lake and river Badis and the university mensas to save money
• Stock up on Saturday, since almost everything closes on Sunday